This afternoon NBC New York held their annual "Locals Only" promotion where some of the world's top chefs serve food to the masses from catering trucks. Last year's star was David Chang, with a picnic party in 90° weather on Houston Street. This year there were four stars, and with the wind chill it had to be ten degrees. Working shifts from 10 to 6 were Alain Ducasse, Paul Liebrandt, Daniel Boulud, and Michael White. I was lucky enough to sample the cooking of Monsieur Boulud.


Mr. Boulud couldn't have been more congenial. He greeted his guests with a warm smile and a platter of food. Dazzled by the hubbub I'll admit I was distracted, but I thought I heard him make a double entendre about shoving an enormous sausage into my mouth.

No, I thought. Couldn't be. Mr. Boulud has been a charcutier for decades now. He couldn't still enjoy those jokes.


The man definitely had a way with meat, though. My sausage was thick and juicy, full of gamy flavor and topped with lots of fresh mint.

My short-time companion Raoul ordered the Croque Monsieur. Hot and cheesy and crusty and sharp, it was definitely one of the best things either of us have ever tried.


As the crowd buzzed and the paparazzi snapped, Raoul and I dug into our desserts: raspberry-topped white chocolate mousse, or pane cotta, or goddamn iles flottantes for all I know. Delicious, but round spoons don't work with square corners.

I could have sworn I heard Mr. Boulud joke with another guy about sausage, this time actually using the word "fellatio." Doesn't seem possible, since the man positively bubbles with charmant, but his t-shirt says "Eat My Sausage," so what do I know?


We heard someone go off the menu and order a Croque Madame. "It's a Croque Monsieur without the fellatio jokes," announced Raoul.